Patch Small Hole In Subfloor Before Installing' title='Patch Small Hole In Subfloor Before Installing' />Should You Hire a Professional Give It a Go. Chip says, use a long screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the doorknob in place  theyll be tucked below the knob on one side of the door. Then, pull apart the entire doorknob assembly. Unscrew the strike plate on the side of the door, and slide out the latch the metal bar that goes into the strike plate when the door is locked. Your new doorknob should come in a kit with all these pieces. Slide in the new latch first, then align both knobs on either side of the door and screw them in. Vapor barriers a common way to prevent concrete moisture problems, but the type of barrier and where it should be installed are the subject of much debate. Tongueandgroove boards interlock, which can make it difficult to repair a small area releasing one damaged board would mean releasing all the boards. LIQUID NAILS adhesive products range from professional construction adhesive and caulk to everyday household adhesive. Western Wood Products Association, representing Western lumber manufacturers. If your new knob doesnt match up with the old screw holes, patch them, then pre drill new holes for the new knob and screw it in. Finish by screwing in the new strike plate. Hire a Pro.  Chip says, you may think you can just start stacking stones, but if your wall doesnt have a properly installed footing a. In fact, any wall thats more than two feet high, which is as low as most walls get, requires engineering to be supported properly. Thats why I suggest calling in a landscape contractor. He or she will make sure the wall  whether its made from concrete, stones or natural boulders  has a solid foundation, then they will build it up to just the height you want. Give It a Go.  Chip says, peeling is usually caused by exposure to moisture and sun hard to avoid, I know. To fix it, first get rid of all the old paint. Wearing a dust mask or respirator, remove the peeling stuff with a stiff wire brush andor a paint scraper. Fill any cracks with a paintable exterior sealant let dry. Sand the wood, then coat it with an exterior primer. Wait a day to ensure its dry, then paint it with an exterior semigloss, which holds to the elements better than a flat finish. Check the forecast before you do this task. If its rainy or colder than about 5. IzriVgn8/hqdefault.jpg' alt='Patch Small Hole In Subfloor' title='Patch Small Hole In Subfloor' />F, the paint wont bond to the wood or primer and will peel as badly as it did before. Give It a Go. Chip says, before you call animal control try these tips First secure garbage can lids to get rid of food sources that could entice the stinker to take up residence. Also, close off any dark, sheltered areas where the skunk could hide, like the space under a deck. Next, install outdoor lights on motion sensors. The brighter the bulb, the better since skunks are nocturnal and tend to stay away from well lit spots. As a last resort, you could spray your yard with a repellent that contains dog or fox urine But just a warning  it could smell. If that doesnt send him packing, set a humane trap. Thatll allow you to capture the skunk and relocate it far away from your home. How-To-Fix-A-Small-Hole-In-A-Drywall.jpg' alt='Patch Small Hole In Subfloor' title='Patch Small Hole In Subfloor' />Please add more clay to the mix. Heat makes things move, and many small movements over time will crumble stuff that doesnt have enough clay. HGTV Elbow Rooms Chip Wade weighs in on the most common home repair questions in the HGTV Magazine series, Talk to a Toolman. Hire a Pro.  Chip says, it can be hard to tell the difference between termite damage and wood decay caused by water. Its best to hire an exterminator certified to deal with termite infestations. He or she will do an inspection and, if the damage is from termites, treat the problem with baits or termiticide, usually over a few visits. Although treatment can run in the thousands of dollars, it pays to get an exterminator in ASAP to limit the damage those little buggers can do. Give It a Go. Chip says, the only way to really fix a scuff is to refinish that portion of the floor. A pro job can cost hundreds of dollars, so if the area is small, do it yourself. First, clean the spot with a degreaser. Then, sand it with a sanding sponge or an orbital sander, going from coarse grit to a fine grit. Wipe the wood with a damp cloth, then restain it by applying the stain in light coats with a foam brush then wiping with a rag. Let it dry, then use a paintbrush to apply a protective finish such as polyurethane, extending it a bit beyond the repairs so it blends in. If it looks too glossy after it dries, buff away some of the sheen with superfine steel wool. Hire a Pro.  Chip says, this is a fairly simple job for a licensed contractor, as long as your original doors are French or double doors. Otherwise, it will require a major renovation. Either way, if you can, buy your sliding door from the company that made your old doors, as theyre more likely to have the same dimensions. Before your contractor arrives, tape down the tarp to protect your floors. He or she will remove your old door and install the new one, as well as flashing. Make sure they offer a warranty so youre covered in case of leaks or drafts. Give It a Go.  Chip says, putting in new glass is easy, especially if you have single pane windows, which are only one piece of glass thick. To start, put Xs with painters tape over the cracked pane. Tap it with a hammer to free it from the frame, then wearing heavy gloves, pull out any remaining pieces. Using a screwdriver, dig out the old glazing putty and the glaziers points, the small metal triangles that hold the glass in place. Once the frame is clear, apply a thin layer of new putty around it. Press the new pane get one at a glass shop into the putty knife. If you have windows with double panes, you can buy a replacement sash which includes the glass and frame, then pop out the old one and put in the new one. Hire a Pro.  Chip says, wasps can be aggressive if they feel threatened, so play it safe and hire an exterminator. To prep for the exterminators arrival, clear the surrounding area the best you can without disturbing the nest. After the treatment is done  it can take a few hours  wait several days before hanging out in the area so any remaining insects have a chance to buzz off. Give It a Go.  Chip says, first scrape away at least 18 inch of the old grout with a grout removal tool you can get a handheld one for about 5 or a bit that attaches to the end of an oscillating power tool starting at about 1. Clean the area with a disinfectant to kill any mold or mildew, then start regrouting If your tiles are spaced 18 inch apart or less, use non sanded grout. Otherwise, use sanded grout. Spread some on a rubber grouting trowel, then hold the trowel at a 4. Scrape away any excess, then let the grout set for 1. After the grout dries, spray it with a sealant. Give It a Go.  Chip says, a droopy shelf will inevitably fall, so add supports stat. Cut a 1x. 2 strip of pine or poplar into three pieces one thats the width of the shelf and two slightly shorter than the depth of the shelf. A home improvement store can cut them for you. Stain or paint the pieces to match your bookcase. Take everything off the shelf, then use wood glue or screws to attach the supports right under the shelf. This way, the shelf is resting on the supports instead of just the pins or pegs that many bookcases come with. Hire a Pro.  Chip says, in most cases, falling shingles are a sign of an aging roof, and replacing them is just a short term solution until you can get an entirely new roof. Even if you have only a few missing shingles, you should hire a reputable roofing company to do the repair. In addition to installing the new shingles, they should do a complete inspection so you know your roofs overall condition. Also keep in mind that no matter how good the patch is, the new shingles will look darker than the others since they havent been faded by the sun. Thats why this is just a temporary fix. Give It a Go.  Chip says, all you need is a tube of wallpaper adhesive available at hardware stores. Squeeze a generous amount onto the wall under the peeling paper, and spread it out with a cotton swab. Press the paper back onto the wall, then quickly wipe up any excess adhesive with a damp rag. How to Build a Shower Pan. In the first article, we covered the initial steps of building a shower shower framing and shower plumbing. In this second article, we will walk through the process of building a traditional shower pan using concrete mortar a. Material Development In Language Teaching Pdf Files more. A mortar shower pan or mud shower pan is a hand built shower base constructed from concrete. Once finished, the shower pan forms the drain containing floor of the shower. Shower pans are typically sloped to a central drain and finished with a tile surface. The purpose of a finished shower pan is to create a stable shower floor that quickly empties waste shower water through its drain. While most shower water drains in this fashion through the primary drain, some does not. The finished surface of many showers is not perfectly waterproof. Some water will penetrate the surface of the shower and pass into the core of the shower pan. Grouted tile surfaces are water resistant, but will, especially over time, allow some water to pass through. This leads us to the secondary job of the shower pan. The secondary job of a shower pan is to re direct any water that has penetrated the surface of the shower floor back into the drain. A properly built shower pan redirects water back to the drain by way of an embedded waterproof membrane that is sloped toward and sealed to the drain. This system forces penetrated water back to and into the drain, through special weep holes built into the side of shower drains. Shower pans built without a shower liner, or similar system of waterproofing, can allow water to pass readily through the shower pan into the floor and wall structures. The concrete used to build shower pans is readily permeable to water and will easily allow water to pass through it into surrounding building structures without the installation of a shower liner. There are many ready made shower pan systems available to use when building a shower. Even so, it is hard to beat a traditional hand made mortar shower pan. Pre made shower pans offer speed and ease of installation, but often lack the rigidity, strength and flexibility of a hand poured concrete pan. Packaged systems Kerdi, others get expensive and complicated without offering compelling advantages over hand made shower pans. A hand built shower pan is built in layers around a shower drain assembly. Building a mortar shower pan is a relatively simple task of assembling these layers. It will take a bit of time and some work, but the reward will be a long lasting, durable shower base. Before you begin building your new shower, you should have a stable sub floor and the appropriate shower drain in place. Once construction of the shower base is complete, you will need to finish the shower pan surface with tile or a suitable surface. More information regarding the prep and finish work of the shower pan can be found in the other shower construction articles How to Build a Mortar Shower Pan Step by Step. Confirm rigidity of the subfloor and proper drain base installation. Prior to building a mortar shower pan, you should have an stable, flat, sufficiently strong subfloor with an appropriate 2 drain installed see Build a Shower Series Part 1 Shower Framing and Plumbing. Stable subfloor base of 34 plywood for shower pan. Before you build your shower pan, you should have a solid subfloor and properly installed drain base. Frame the shower curb. If you are planning on a shower curb, you have several options. You can build a form to pour mortar into or use materials to form the core of the curb and apply mortar on top of this core. I used the core and mortar around method using several stacked 2x. To build a curb using a 2 x 4 core, stack and fasten several I used 3 2x. First screw the bottom 2 x 4 to the subfloor, and then screw the second 2 x 4 to the fastened first 2 x 4 and repeat to desired curb height. To build a curb using forms for a concrete pour, assemble forms using boards or similar and fill the forms with concrete. Stack 2 x 4s or bricks or short concrete blocks to create a curb core. Later, apply mortar around this core to form a shower curb. Cover shower pan plywood with a layer of asphalt felt tar paper or similar. To begin the shower pan construction, add a layer of roofing felt tar paper to the bottom of the shower pan. The felt will serve as a moisture barrier for the first layer of mud helping the mortar to retain moisture while curing. It will also help to isolate the subfloor from the shower pan. To install the asphalt felt, cover the flat surface of the subfloor, cutting around the drain base. Add a few galvanized staples to secure the felt to the plywood. Cover subfloor plywood with layer of roofing felt prior to pouring the first layer of the shower pan. Add blocking to create shower pan box. Next, add wood blocking between the wall framing to create a box for the shower pan. For the blocking material, use pieces of 2x. I used pieces of the 34 plywood I used to build my subfloor. The blocking should be at least as high as the shower curb. Add blocking between wall studs to form shower pan box to retain the shower pan layers. Mount galvanized wire mesh to base of shower pan and over curb. Add galvanized mesh or stucco wire to the bottom of the shower pan, The mesh will reinforce base floor mud layer of mortar and help hold the mortar to the shower curb. Bend the mesh slightly to create waves in mesh to help embed the mesh in the center of the floor mud. Carry the mesh around the curb framing and secure with galvanized staples. Add stucco wire or galvanized wire mesh to reinforce the mud mortar. Carry this mesh around the 24 curb frame to help hold the wet floor mix to the curb. Notice waves in mesh to help embed in mud pour. Bend stucco wire over and around 24 curb frame to hold and reinforce the concrete floor mix used to build the shower pan and curb. Wire mesh secured to wood shower pan curb with staples. Prepare floor mix. Descargar Gratis A Nero Express. Traditional floor mix mortar floor mud or deck mud is a 5 to 1 mixture of sand and Portland cement. To make strong, stable mud, add just enough water to create a thick clay like mixture that just holds its shape when packed. A latex concrete admixture can be added for some or all of the water component of the mortar mix to add flexibility and strength in many cases, however, latex is overkill for typical shower pan mortar. That said, I did substitute about half of the water requirement for my mix with latex admixture I like overkill. To make quality mud, first dry mix the ingredients even if from a premixed bagged product thoroughly with a hoe to ensure proper sand cement contact. Once mixed, add water or a waterlatex blend. Use only enough water to create a mix that will hold its shape when squeezed in your hand, but not release excess water. Dry mixes create strong, stable concrete with less shrinkage and higher compression strength. Mix shower pan floor mud by adding just enough water to hold its shape when squeezed in your hand. Build the shower pan first layer with floor mix mortar. Using the prepared floor mix mortar, build the first layer of the shower pan. Slope this base layer from the walls of the shower toward the shower drain at a drop of 14 to 38 per foot. To help you create the proper slope, first determine and mark the shower walls with the proper starting height for the mortar. This starting height is the mortar height at the wall that will provide the proper slope toward the drain.